Thursday, September 29, 2016

Arriving at Land's End at Last

We had just 6 km to go, today, to arrive at the Land's End Hotel at the ferry terminal to Texel. We first walked below the dike with the churning sea to our left. There was a very stiff wind, but at our back. Soon, we decided to climb some stairs and walk on top of the dike. This was more interesting because now we could admire the sea on one side and the row housing of Den Helder on our right. After about one and a half hours we arrived at our accommodation and it was not even 11 am yet. We asked the reception girl about the town and she promptly told us that it was the dullest town in all of Holland. She strongly suggested that we take a train to Alkmaar or even Amsterdam!
Not to be deterred, we strode off towards what we hoped was the center of town. Den Helder is a naval town with not much else. We sadly had to concede that maybe the front desk girl had a point. We walked endlessly through tired little streets, trying to find some kind of town square with some action. We did find a shopping street in the end and had a bowl of soup somewhere while people smoked around us. 
Then the real fun began. We got completely disoriented and our 6 km day quickly turned into a 14 km day. While Jeff was trying to look at the GPS on his phone we were hit by a fierce wind and rain storm. It was coming at us sideways, as if to make up for the lack of rain all those previous days. 
Somehow, we found the big dike and were shocked to see Lange Jaap right ahead of us. We had left him behind forever this morning, so we thought. Once on the dike, we braved the storm and marched a good 45 minutes to our destination, the Land's End. We have a lovely room overlooking the sea and can watch the ferries come and go. There is even a kettle in this room so I'll make some tea now.
Tomorrow I will do one more blog to summarize the experience.


Wednesday, September 28, 2016

On to Huisduinen

Another lovely day but with a stiff wind from the west. We walked about 16 km today and started out through the flat polders, all land below sea level. For most of the morning we walked below a man-made dike but still high enough to get a good view of the farm land below us. Part of our route today was also a marathon route and we were asked to stay to the left of the path to make room for the runners.
After a lunch stop the route took us through a very quiet area of dunes, on a narrow shell path. Really lovely. From the west, to our left, we felt the wind and heard the soft roar of the sea. And far up ahead of us we could already see Lange Jaap, DenHelder's red lighthouse, the tallest in Holland.
It still felt like a rather long day but now we are settled in the Beatrix Hotel in Huisduinen. There is some construction going on outside. We said we did not mind and were given the "best" room in the place. There is a view of the sea but the windows are very dirty. Really dirty! Quite un Dutch, actually. So not much of a view. Except kind of a hazy one.  And below our window they are chatting and sawing and hammering. 
The trip continues to be an adventure!


Tuesday, September 27, 2016

Rest Day in Callantsoog.

Even though it rained last night, today is full on sun. We have a lovely view of farm land and a slough from our room. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and then decided to hit the town, what there is of it. From the beach you cannot see it because it lies below sea level behind a dune. We strolled around until we came to a coffee place and sat in the lovely sunshine. We enjoyed the resident birds who patiently waited for people to leave in order to indulge in any left overs.
We decided to stroll on the beach and were assailed by a stiff wind from the southwest. Some guys were doing some maintenance on the rock piers sticking out into the ocean. Jeff had a chat with them about it. The piers help to bring in more sand as the beaches here are quite narrow. 
Then it was lunchtime and of course we had to sit in a beach house on stilts on the beach in order to have our noses right on the surf. The glass panels nicely kept the wind away from us. We decided to forego the croquettes today and ordered pancakes instead.
I also dipped into an Albert Hein store and admired the offerings with considerable envy!
Oh, yes. And Jeff got a hair cut at the Funny Hair Salon in town!

Monday, September 26, 2016

To Callantsoog.

For some reason we thought we would have a fairly easy day today. However, Jeff's watch and my Fitbit said that we walked 24 km today, including that long staircase at the beginning. A member of our party (we will not mention names) decided some shortcuts would be in order and we did not find our route back until about 1pm. We walked on country roads and on endless dikes, but always the sea to our left. So we knew we were going north, the way we needed to go. 
After getting very tired we suddenly came upon a lovely seaside Cafe, the perfect place to have some lunch. The beaches here are not very wide like they are further south, and it seemed that the waves were breaking right below us. But our final challenge of the day was a 5 km beach walk to get to Callantsoog. I thought, I can't do this anymore today. But flocks of birds, including some oystercatchers, distracted us enough to keep us going. Also, even though there was some surf, there was no wind at all and very mild. We have been so lucky with the weather. Before entering the town to look for our hotel we had a cool beer in a beach Cafe built on very high stilts. I can imagine what goes in here during a storm.
Altogether, another lovely day!